The Alternative Plan Trio

Wednesday, May 20

Weather: sunny but chilly

Miles travelled: 20.6

Total miles on AT: 882.3

We started the day slowly, taking our time packing up and organizing. I spent so much time on my blog the night before that I still had to sort through my food and pack everything up and shower, but South Pole and Andreas were pretty much done and waiting on me. We ate breakfast in the lobby and Mighty Mouse and Heisenberg joined us; they were staying in town for a zero day. At 8:30 we called Mr. Gizmo who told us his girlfriend told him an interesting story about picking up a very chatty German the day before-- his girlfriend was Miss Lady!

As we hit the trail, another car pulled up and out of it came Ninja Geisha, fresh from her own zero day. We entered the Shenandoah national park together but soon had lost ninja geisha and Andreas, far ahead. The walking was nice and gentle, with slow ascents and descents. Midday we ran into Andreas again, suffering from allergies, which he said made him very sleepy. I'd been having a hard day, I don't know why. I just didn't have much energy and thought a lot about going home and getting hugs and snuggles from my cat and not having to work so hard every day. South Pole and Andreas were encouraging. Andreas kept saying how sure he was that I would make it, and if it wasn't for us he might be at home right now himself. 

Andreas finally decided to sit on a rock wall and maybe nap. We didn't really have anywhere to go in a rush, we'd already walked ten miles and only had ten more, so we decided to stop with him. It was a very relaxing stop. I lay on the wall with my head on my pack and watched clouds and cyclists on the road next to us, sometimes snacking or looking at my AT guide. I took my shoes and socks off and put lotion on my feet-- my new shoes had been squeezing my toes together and the skin in between my toes was raw. An hour and a half later, we started moving again. I felt much better about hiking and not going home. I immediately lost Andreas and South Pole, having somehow run out of steam in the heat and wanting to stay on the rock wall forever, sunbathing and people watching. I played tricks with myself to keep walking and started to see how many songs I could sing from memory. 

I finally reached the shelter, relieved and ready to throw myself on the ground wherever, to find South Pole agonizing over tent sites, before a woman went down past the privy and found more flat spots back there. Ninja geisha slept in the shelter, but I was still wary of Noro. 

I was totally exhausted and ready to crash so I got into my tent early. I crawled under my despicable me fleece and realized I was a bit chilly. This was when it hit me that it would be a long night. 

Thursday, May 21

Weather: chilly midmorning rain, foggy the rest of the time

Miles travelled: 24.8

Total miles on AT: 907.1

I hardly slept, and when I managed to sleep through the cold for a few minutes I dreamt of being at home under a mountain of blankets. I put my rain jacket on and stuck my feet in my trash compactor bag, but it wasn't enough to be comfortable. I couldn't believe how cold it was, after sweating for two and a half weeks! 

In the morning we packed up early, trying to avoid the rain that had been forecasted. I was totally exhausted and on the brink of crying when we left, and for the next 8 miles I plotted my escape back to Waynesboro for two nights of warmth and a zero day. I cried because I didn't want to take a day off or lose South Pole and Andreas but I was so tired and cold that I was desperate for good rest. I planned to ask people at the wayside to take me back with them. I felt absolutely miserable but I knew I didn't want to quit and I was certain I'd still make it to Katahdin, but maybe not by August 7th like I was hoping. 

Finally we arrived at the first wayside, which is a restaurant right alongside the road in the Shenandoah national park. Also in the SNP, we follow the road and often hear it and cross it, meaning lots of day hikers and weekenders and strict rules about campfires and camping. 

At the wayside, we all had a hot meal and a  blackberry shake and discussed tactics. Andreas was adamant that I didn't need to go back and said worst come to worst I could borrow his sleeping bag. I knew it would be getting even colder that night and with the rain, it would be better if we could find a place inside, so we planned to stay at a motel 17 miles further. I was very happy with our plan, and in the hours we spent at the wayside we missed the worst of the rain. I felt glad to have trail friends that were so willing to amend their plans and spend more money on my account (although I know they didn't mind a hot shower and laundry either!). 

Ninja geisha arrived at the wayside while we were there and Andreas told her about our plan, inviting her to join because there was room for a fourth person. She said she'd try to keep up with us (actually she's so fast we try to keep up with her). The walk went by quickly. After a few hours we ran into some trail magic given to us by a section hiker named Nancy, who had cold sodas and snacks and stories about her hiking. It was a nice pause and we all continued at the same time, though I quickly fell behind everyone. I was so slow that I felt sure they would have to wait an hour for me at the end, and I imagined them checking their wristwatches and glancing at the trail and eventually cooking dinner. About a mile away, I was surprised to catch up to South Pole. We hobbled the last mile together and when we finally reached the gap discovered that ninja geisha and Andreas had only been waiting 29 minutes, and they called the motel shuttle to get us as soon as we were in sight. 

The motel was close and cozy. The room was warm and we all showered and ordered pizza and I had a beer (as much as possible from the bed) before I zonked out early, dead to the world till morning. 

Friday, May 22

Weather: warm and sunny, chilly if you stopped in the shade

Miles travelled: 24.9

Total miles on AT: 932.0

I slept wonderfully and felt much better the next morning. We'd all had a good time at the motel and it was fun having Ninja Geisha around. We had another plan to get to a lodge on the trail that night so we could have a warm night indoors and Andreas invited ninja geisha to join us once again. She was hesitant, but South Pole convinced her later in the day and she did come with us after all. 

The shuttle took us back to the trail and we began to walk. All four of us pretty much walked together and talked, which was nice and relaxing. After 8 miles we reached a camp store and got off to buy snacks. Andreas made a beeline for the beer and I had ice cream and apple cider. The man at the counter, Marathon Man, was a thru hiker 46 years ago in his college days and told us all his crazy stories. His group of friend were marathoners and only had the summer to finish the whole trail so they averaged 38 miles a day, carrying aluminum frame packs. Two of his friends in that group were in the Olympics and he only just did not qualify. He also told me (and anyone who would listen) about his crazy 17-day kayak tour in the Northern Territory of Canada, where the plane dropped them off and said we might or might not find you two weeks after we're supposed to because there are so many lakes to search. He pretty much only ate fish and they got terribly lost because compasses didn't work, but the plane somehow found them when it was supposed to.

After our nice long break, we finally continued. I was having a lot of foot pain so I fell behind fast and after a while stopped to switch from the factory insoles to my custom insoles that I'd been hoping not to need because they hurt my feet too. I had decided that they hurt less though, and they did help immediately. At one point a big tour group was ahead of me and it was odd when the seas parted to let me through. The ranger started talking about how thru hikers live off of snickers and honey buns and I started to question their motives for directing the Appalachian trail through the shenandoahs and giving us a free backcountry permit. It was like we were some sort of attraction to be ogled. 

South Pole had told me she would take a break at one of the overlooks but I didn't see her so I wasn't sure which one she'd stopped at or if she was ahead, so I continued and drew special stars in the dirt so she would know I was ahead of her in case she was behind. I took my time and lots of people passed me and I felt awful, so I was surprised when South Pole did catch up from behind. She said she'd gotten caught up talking to a day hiker, but hadn't scored any food yet. It's been sort of a mission of ours to get some food from picnickers or day hikers, because that's supposed to be a popular thing to do in the shenandoahs, given all the tourists.

We walked slowly together, both of us hurting and pushing each other on. It was all I could do to keep from sitting on a rock for half an hour, but I knew Andreas was waiting for us so I kept my feet moving, one after the other. I counted the seconds and the miles. It was a huge relief to reach the lodge to see Andreas and ninja geisha sitting outside waiting for us, and they said they hadn't been waiting long. 

We walked down the hill to our beautiful cabin, built in the 1800s and charming as can be. It had a huge panoramic window in the living room and a nice King size bed, which Andreas had to himself and the three of us slept in the living room. We put our bags down and were so hungry we decided to go to dinner as we were, since we'd showered that morning anyway. The dining room was much fancier than we expected and I started to feel bad about my smell, but Andreas told us that at his job before the trail this wouldn't be fancy enough. And I thought a $14 entree was pricey! I had a "gourmet burger" and South Pole, Andreas and I opted for our usual beer. South Pole and I were talking about how we've drank more beer with Andreas than we have in months (or for me in my life, since I only just became legal anyway), but I'm starting to get a taste for it and look forward to a beer with dinner.

We didn't make it back to our room until dark, and then I fell asleep in my stinky clothes because I was so sleepy. It was shockingly cold that night because of the huge panoramic window. We'd turned off the heater because it was too noisy for Andreas to sleep but South Pole and I were on the couch bed and only had a thin blanket and we were both cold. 

Saturday, May 23

Weather: sunny and hot

Miles travelled: 19.3

Total miles on AT: 951.3

We all had showers (except Ninja Geisha, who was working on stinking up for her parents, who she was meeting that day) and started the day slowly so we could enjoy the nice cabin. We hung out in the lobby for an hour or so while Andreas skyped his daughter and South Pole called her husband and I stared dopily around the room instead of doing productive things. 

At last we started hiking. Ninja had left before us, and we were only four miles into our hike when we caught up to her sitting at a picnic table snacking. She said she'd injured her ankle and was having trouble hiking. We sat with her for about an hour before we really had to continue, and it was sad to leave her alone at the picnic table, although we knew her parents would be there soon. I hope she catches up, it was lots of fun to have her around.

Andreas, South Pole and I hiked together for a big portion of the day, chatting about mileage and plans and I dubbed us "The Alternative Plan Trio," since we always have plans A, B, C, and D, and then end up going with plan F. It's good to know your options.

Since it was memorial day weekend, there were hordes of weekenders and day hikers congesting the trail. It slowed us down a lot and was pretty strange. You can always recognize a day hiker or weekender because you get a whiff of detergent and lotion and nice smelling things when they pass; I shudder to think what they're smelling from me, as I seem to be immune to it. 

We realized at last that we would have to make pretty good time or risk arriving at the last wayside after closing, so Andreas left us behind to hike his usual fast pace and South Pole and I struggled to make good time. We ended up arriving to the wayside with plenty of time to spare, having walked fast, and I bought french fries, a little cup of ice cream, and a beer to supplement the meal I cooked. We lingered at a picnic table outside and a girl we hadn't met yet came over to sit with us. It turned out she was also a thru hiker, and her name was Five. She was from Ithaca, NY, and hoping to finish by August 20 because she is starting grad school at Princeton on August 24. We all chatted and hung around and one of her friends, Remedy, showed up just after the wayside had closed. He managed to get them to let him buy some food though.

Andreas, South Pole and I finally left to hike another mile to find a campsite. The shenandoahs are a little difficult to camp in because you aren't supposed to camp within sight of the trail and there are all sorts of regulations about it regarding distance from water, development, park boundaries, and roads. You are also not allowed to have a campfire other than at the shelters. On our way up the trail I was hiking right behind Andreas, staring at my feet, when he started saying "oh oh oh" and stumbled backwards into me, holding out his arm to make sure I did also. I was confused and wondered how many beers he'd had when he said "there's a bear." I looked around him to see a big black bear standing 20 feet in front of us, sniffing loudly as a little cub scurried up a tree. We stood there for half a minute before deciding not to go any closer, and made a big circle around her (missing a few feet of trail!). South Pole and I went crazy taking pictures and we could see that there were two cubs high up in a tree. We were so slow that the momma bear got bored and started scratching herself, and then sniffing around in the plants, while the cubs lounged and scratched, safe and high. She stayed at the base of their tree, guarding them.

We ended up finding a flattish spot right off of the trail and decided to camp there, figuring it would be fine because other people were doing it as well and it was late enough that no one would care (no one did). We hung our bear bags and went to sleep. Andreas traded me his sleeping bag for my blanket because he said he would be warmer than I would and he didn't want me to be cold, and I was incredibly grateful.