4000 miles, the redwoods, and one last night on the road

July 26, 2014

4000 miles, the redwoods, and one last night on the road

Apologies for the late post, I haven't had a sufficient connection for the past few days.

Wednesday, July 23 (Day 68)

Distance: 83 miles

Average speed: 10.5 mph

Max speed: 31 mph

Total: 3897 miles

Weather: rainy and foggy morning, 15 mph headwind, cloudy afternoon, chilly all day

I woke up to the sound of rain and checked my weather app to see a forecast of headwind and rain, and I knew I wouldn't be riding 140 miles. I dawdled for a couple hours before leaving the shelter of the church.

I had a very scary climb up a big hill with lots of traffic, small shoulders, and fog, and on my way down I was pelted with little droplets of rain that felt like ice.

I'd entered the beautiful and majestic redwoods!

Around noon, I came across the second solo female tourer I've met so far-- Jenny, a medical resident from San Francisco on a few days' tour of the coast, and we rode together for the rest of the day.

Jenny lives in San Francisco now, but is from Boston. She's going into radiation oncology, and this is her second (or third?) year of residency.

About 10 miles after we started riding together, we ran into a group of three touring cyclists, and then a couple, and at one point there were seven of us bunched up before the group dispersed, the couple ahead of us and the group of three behind us.

There was a ghost bicycle, meaning a cyclist died there, which was very eerie.

We ended up camping at the same KOA (a "campground" with a hot tub!) as the group of three we'd seen earlier, as well as a solo guy from Australia, and stayed up laughing and exchanging stories until 11.

Thursday, July 24 (Day 69)

Distance: 102.5 miles

Average speed: 10.7 mph

Max speed: 38.1 mph

Total: 4000 miles

Jenny and I left before the others, who had decided to do laundry.

We passed a fruit stand and decided to split a (delicious) melon.

Then we parted ways, Jenny to do a bit of hiking on the Lost Coast trail and I on my speedy way to San Francisco.

It was certainly very fun to ride with her, if only for a little while!

And there will always be cows.

I found out where all those logging trucks were headed.

And very happily got off 101, which had become a freeway, for the Avenue of the Giants.

I decided not to take the short detour to see the largest redwoods because I wanted to ride so far that day.

There were much bigger trees than this but I always seemed to miss capturing them in a picture. I spent a lot of time thinking how much those trees must know than we do, and wondering how old they were, and what right we have to cut them down for tables and chairs...

I found a tree that seemed to be a haven for vultures.

Everything seemed very dry, the creeks bare and rivers low.

And my odometer hit a satisfying 4000 miles as I rolled into camp, just as the light faded away entirely.

Camp was crowded with a group of nine young people that had banded together, two couples, four solo guys and a solo girl. They invited me to sit with them so I did, and enjoyed the company as they joked and chatted easily with each other and with me.

Friday, July 25 (Day 70)

Distance: 108 miles

Average speed: 10.6 mph

Max speed: 39.4 mph

Total: 4108 miles

Weather: sunny, 20 mph tailwind

This was my first time riding two centuries in a row! I also broke my max speed record, with a tailwind and going downhill. It is really nice to have prevailing tailwinds heading south along the coast.

I haven't seen anyone two nights in a row because no one goes at my pace, but it's interesting to run into these people who seem to accidentally end up at the same campground night after night.

I started the day with a steep and tall hill (my last!), early enough to beat traffic. Again, I was first to leave camp, at the late hour of 7:30. The mob of tourers had invited me to ride with them, but I didn't think I would be able to hold myself back when I know I am so close to the end!

I was happy to reach the coast again, as were others in my situation. Someone had written a quote from Lewis and Clark on the railing "Ocean in view. Oh the joy."

I found a penny on the asphalt, and felt it was urging me on. "You're almost there!"

These trees show just how bad the wind gets on the coast, but luckily the wind is in my favor this time.

I rolled into camp just as dark struck once again, completely exhausted. All the long days were beginning to wear on me in a way that a night of sleep and good food could no longer cure.

Saturday, July 26 (Day 71)

Distance: 48 miles

Average speed: 10.1 mph

Max speed: 28.7 mph

Total: 4156 miles

Second to last day riding! I didn't feel up for a long day, and since I'm so close I felt I could afford to stop early.

The road was just about the worst road I've ever ridden on: narrow, winding, busy, full of impatient drivers, and a steep drop off. After blaring honks, snarky comments from windows, and trucks hurtling past at high speed, I was flinching at people giving me thumbs up and waving in a friendly way.

Even 48 miles felt long, as I continuously stopped off the side of the road to allow cars to pass and braked heavily on the downhill sections, scared of going too fast.

It's hard to believe tomorrow is my last day of riding, and this is my last night on the road. It's been a long, fantastic journey, but I find myself wishing for a soft bed and to see some of the same people every day again.