The wilderness of Idaho

Sorry for the enormous delay in posting! I haven't had service in days-- in fact, still don't have service, but my fancy campground has wifi. I couldn't get in touch with my mom for three days and she was worried sick...

June 29-30 (Days 44-45)

Distance: 0 miles

Total: 2654 miles

My dad, Leticia, and I drove down from Lewistown and spend two days in Helena with my aunt and cousins. We went sightseeing and played games and the like. I also refined my gear set up with a larger tent, unbroken water bottles, and a weird looking cup/cell phone holder.

July 1 (Day 46)

Distance: 40 miles

Average speed: 12.1 mph

Max speed: 29.8 mph

Total: 2694 miles

We drove to Missoula, meaning I skipped about 400 miles-- as my dad put it, I could be riding through Montana or I could be riding along the coast (time crunch) What a cheat. It's good I'm not a purist!

At Missoula, we stopped at Adventure Cycling headquarters, which is where my fantastic maps are made. They have internet, ice cream, and a wall of cyclists who have passed through, which I was added to. I also found some of the cyclists I had met along the way. 

The (very nice) woman who was talking to me told me that they get 1000-1500 touring cyclists through there every year, though not all are going cross country. We has my bike weighed, full water and too much food and all, and it was 70 pounds. Apparently the average is about 80, so I'm doing okay!

Missoula was another very neat city, and it felt a little like Ithaca, although much larger. 

From there, my dad and Leticia took all of my bags and arranged to meet me at the campground, which was nearly at the top of Lolo pass. I fairly flew, in spite of going uphill, and enjoyed the beautiful and easy ride. It was nice to be around trees again, as I have been since I reached Lewistown.

I arrived at the campground in good time to find my dad and Leticia sitting down to eat, and it was a very nice change to simply sit down and start eating and enjoying the company without having to unpack right away.

We spent hours building a fire, and I played my ukulele. It was a wonderful evening and we went to sleep late (around 10).

My new tent is extraordinary roomy!

July 2 (Day 47) 

Distance: 93 miles

Average speed: 11.9 mph

Max speed: 31.9 mph

Total: 2787 miles

Weather: sunny, high of 80 or 90, no wind

My dad and Leticia took my bags and met me 6 miles further down the road at the top of Lolo pass and at the border of Montana and Idaho, where I took back my things and we said our goodbyes.

From the summit, I had a long 70 mile descent, the first few miles of which were terrifyingly steep. I felt bad flying (and braking) past the cyclists who were puffing their way up. 

This was my most beautiful day of riding yet, following the enormous Lochsa river in pure wilderness. There was a 66 mile stretch with no services at all.

Once I crossed Lolo pass, the water in the creeks became crystal clear, and I could hardly believe my eyes.

I can't remember this man's name anymore (darn, I should've written it down!) but he's from Saint Paul and 30 years ago he and his girlfriend spent $100 in all living in Hawaii for three months, sleeping on beaches! He told me he's reliving his glory days.

The road the while way down was horribly narrow and busy, and I had to get off several times to make way for vehicles.

I spent the night at a nice campground by myself, and took advantage of my roomy tent by playing my ukulele again. For only the fourth time on this trip!

July 3 (Day 48)

Distance: 26 miles

Average speed: 9 mph

Max speed: 21.9 mph

Total: 2814 miles

Weather: sunny, high of 92, no wind

This was an interesting, but unbelievable, day to say the least!

I set off with the intention of riding only 40 miles to reach phone service, where I could finally call my mom and post on my blog again. 

The terrain changed quickly from wild forest to rocky yellow fields, and soon I had to say goodbye to the beautiful Lochsa river. Along the way, I met a man named Louis (I think) who had thru-hiked the AT and told me about another solo female touring cyclist ahead of me! Her name was Lauren and he had camped with her.

I rode about 20 miles before I reached an incredibly steep and long grade. It wasn't long before I was walking up, sweating, burning, almost out of water, and sure I would never see Lauren now. 

It was taking me ages and I was maybe 3/4 of the way up when a man stopped. He asked me if I took rides, and I very gratefully accepted his offered ride. He told me he was driving a state rig and wasn't supposed to pick people up, but he'd seen me working my way up about an hour previous and just couldn't leave me there!

I was in shock and awe, and he took me all the way to town! He was going to help me find my campsite when he decided to introduce me to his wife, and then invited me to lunch. He's called Jug, and his wife's name is Gloria.

Outside the cafe was a touring bicycle. We went in and I saw the telltale signs of a cyclist at a table: helmet, handlebar bag, and maps. I made a beeline for the table and found Lauren! It was the first time either of us had come across a solo female tourer and we talked for quite some time.

Lauren started from Virginia on the same day I did, and is racing to make it to her flight on July 10 in Astoria, OR, meaning she has to ride over 100 miles a day. She told me she wouldn't pay to pitch a tent and has stayed in firehouses and churches and stealth camps too, and hasn't showered in she didn't remember how long. 

It was very exciting to see her, but she had to go so we said goodbye and she is doubtless far, far ahead of me now!

After lunch, Jug and Gloria invited me to camp with them about 15 miles from town, so we drove away from town and back down into the valley, where I realized I no longer had phone service and I hadn't had the opportunity to call my mom yet. I was really worried about it for a couple hours until I mentioned it to Jug and Gloria, who immediately packed up the truck and we headed back into town! I was incredibly grateful that thy should go so far out of their way to help me (and my worried mother).

While in town, we had delicious huckleberry ice cream, and then headed back to camp for watermelon, cherries, and grapes. Yum! Jug told me he had married Gloria 55 years ago and they promised to grow old together, and she wasn't holding up her side of the bargain!

Friday, July 4 (Day 49)

Distance: 0 miles

Total: 2814 miles

Jug and Gloria offered to drive me to my next stop, to skip the awful hill and heat ahead, and I happily accepted. I am growing quite lazy! :)

In the morning, I found Jug chatting with the guys camped next to us and he waved me over. They were from Ithaca! I think their names might have been Alec and Dylan, and they were very nice. It was quite the coincidence, although they were driving of course!

Jug, Gloria, their two dogs and I loaded up into their truck and went to town to watch the big Fourth of July parade, which was fantastic! I really enjoyed watching all the rodeo queens with their funny waves and all the kids excitedly snatching candy that was thrown from the horses, cars, trucks, tractors, and ATVs.

We then drove to the town I was planning to stay at, and Jug and Gloria helped me find suitable camping! We checked all over, and I am now settled at a very nice family campground (full of RVs, naturally) with showers, soft grass, and wifi. I am incredibly, incredibly grateful to have met Jug and Gloria. One of his friends told me I had run into the nicest man in Idaho, and I haven't met many people from Idaho, but I would say she's probably right!